High-Altitude Medical

HANDBOOK

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POLAR HANDS

The painful cracks that can appear on the fingertips, known in English literature as “polar hands”, painfully made their presence known to me during a winter expedition to Nanga Parbat in 2006/2007. Three of the ten climbers, including myself, suffered from cracked skin on the tips of our fingers. While it may sound like a minor issue, in the mountains fully functional fingers can be a matter of safety.

 

These seemingly small and harmless injuries have a way of attracting sharp edges, and repeated damage worsens the cracks and prevents healing. Everyday tasks – tying boots, attaching crampons, setting up tents, rope operations, preparing food – gradually become associated with pain. During the Nanga Parbat winter expedition, I initially wrapped my fingertips with a plain adhesive plaster to protect myself and my teammates from worsening the cracks. As the plaster began to run out and was reserved for more serious injuries, we needed a more effective solution. This is when Tommy Heinrich, an Argentine National Geographic photographer, high-altitude “paparazzo,” and climbing companion, recalled a conversation he had with a doctor at Everest Base Camp… but more on that shortly.

 

 

CAUSES

 

These conditions can contribute to skin damage. Additionally, high-altitude hypoxia reduces blood flow to the skin, making it more prone to injury. Swelling, which can occur in the hands, face, or feet at high altitude, stretches the skin and increases the risk of cracking.

 

Scientific literature also reports painful fingertip cracks among people spending long periods in Antarctica or the Andes. These lesions appear spontaneously in skin folds, natural grooves, around nails, and on fingertip pads. They are not caused by trauma or infection. Cracks usually heal quickly and spontaneously, without scarring, once climbers descend to lower, warmer altitudes.

 

 

HOW TO PREVENT POLAR HANDS

 

➤ Protect hands from drying by applying thick, protective creams. Neutrogena is highly recommended and has proven effective on Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak in winter.

➤ Avoid direct exposure to cold – wear appropriate gloves or mittens.

➤ Use high-SPF sunscreen to protect against UV radiation.

➤ Proper acclimatization helps prevent hand swelling and reduces extreme changes in blood flow to the skin.

 

 

 

 

HOW TO TREAT PAINFUL CRACKS

 

Here we return to Tommy’s conversation with the doctor at Everest Base Camp. The Everest method for polar hands is a medical version of “super glue”. I tried it on myself, and it really works.

 

In Poland, it was once available as Chirurkoll. Today, the American equivalents Dermaband or GluStitch can be ordered online. For organizational and practical reasons, I successfully used ordinary super glue on Nanga Parbat in winter and “drops” on Broad Peak – both worked perfectly.

 

Application instructions:

 

➤ Clean and dry the wound thoroughly; it should not be actively bleeding.

➤ Apply glue to the edges of the crack and hold the skin pressed together for at least 30 seconds.

➤ Do not apply glue under pressure and carefully control the amount to avoid sticking other parts of your body.

 

Why glue?

 

➤ Protects the wound from further damage

➤ Reduces pain

➤ Accelerates healing

 

After 4–5 days, the glue usually falls off, and in most cases, it should be reapplied. Do not use vitamin-based or petroleum-based ointments on the cracks, as they can reduce the effectiveness of the glue.

 

 

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WANT TO LEARN MORE?

 

If you want to better prepare your health for trekking or a high-altitude expeditions, check out the expanded guide in the ebook "High-Altitude Medicine for Trekkers and Climbers" >>

 

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Gain practical skills for handling emergencies in the mountains through our online training "High-Altitude First Aid" >> - prepared for those planning trips to high altitudes.

 

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 For a detailed list of what to include in your expedition medical kit and step-by-step instructions for assembling your personal first aid set, see the ebook "High-Altitude Expedition Medical Kit Guide" >>

 

PLANNING A TREK OR A HIGH-ALTITUDE EXPEDITION?

 

If you would like to check whether your health condition allows you to safely participate in a trek or high-altitude expedition, consider booking a medical consultation >> or using a telemedical expedition package >>

 

This allows you to assess potential health risks in advance, prepare properly fot altitude, and increase your safety during the expedition.

07 March 2026

The company was established in 2004. The goal of MedEverest is education in the field of mountain medicine and the dangers of high altitudes. I deal with all medical aspects of staying at high altitude. I organize medical support for trekking and high-altitude expeditions.

 

Specialist Medical Practice Medeverest Robert Szymczak based in Gdańsk (80-360), at ul. Bolesława Krzywoustego 19F, NIP: 5841943576, REGON: 220148318.

 

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